Siberian Husky – True Winter Dog

The Siberian Husky is a medium-size, dense-coat working  dog breed that originated in eastern Siberia. The breed belongs to the Spitz genetic family. It is recognizable by its thickly furred double coat, sickle tail, erect triangular ears, and distinctive markings

siberian huskey1 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog
siberian huskey2 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog
Huskies are an active, energetic, and resilient breed whose ancestors came from the extremely cold and harsh environment of the Siberian Arctic. Siberian Huskies were bred by the Chukchi of Northeastern Asia. The dogs were imported into Alaska during the Nome Gold Rush and later spread into the United States and Canada. They were initially sent to Alaska and Canada as sled dogs but rapidly acquired the status of family pets and show dogs. The Siberian Husky, Samoyed, and Alaskan Malamute are all breeds directly descended from the original “sled dog.”

siberian huskey3 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

siberian huskey4 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest breeds of dog. The name “Husky” does not mean that these dogs are burly, thick, fat, or overweight. “Husky” originated as a mutation of the term “Eskie,” a derogatory name used by the Europeans to describe the Inuit people whom they met when they first made expeditions into the Arctic. The word “Siberian” in this breed’s name is derived from Siberia itself, because it is thought that Eskimo or sled dogs were used to cross the land bridge of the Bering Strait on the way into, or out of, Alaska Breeds descending from the Eskimo dog were once found throughout the Northern Hemisphere from Siberia to Canada, Alaska, Greenland, Labrador, and Baffin Island With the help of Siberian Huskies, entire tribes of peoples were able not only to survive, but to push forth into terra incognita. Admiral Robert Peary of the United States Navy was aided by this breed during his expeditions in search of the North Pole. The Siberian Husky’s role in this feat cannot be overestimated.

siberian huskey5 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

siberian huskey6 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

Siberian Huskies share many outward similarities with the Alaskan Malamute as well as many other Spitz breeds such as the Samoyed, which has a comparable history to the Huskies. They come in a variety of colors and patterns, usually with white paws and legs, facial markings, and tail tip. The most common colors are black and white, copper-red and white, gray and white, and pure white, though many individuals have blondish or piebald spotting. Striking masks, spectacles, and other facial markings occur in wide variety. They tend to have a wolf-like appearance. The pure white Husky is treasured if it has ice-blue eyes, as it does not occur in most litters. The facial appearance, depending on the category of the dog, could be that of a wolf, which is most common in the show ring.

siberian huskey7 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

siberian huskey8 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

The Siberian Husky’s coat is thicker than that of most breeds of dogs,  comprising two layers: a dense undercoat and a longer topcoat of short, straight guard hairs. It protects the dogs effectively against harsh Arctic winters, but the coat also reflects heat in the summer. It is able to withstand temperatures as low as ?50 °C to ?60 °C.  The undercoat is often absent during shedding.Their thick coats require weekly grooming. Long guard hair is not desirable and is considered a fault. The Siberian Husky has been described as a behavioral representative of the domestic dog’s forebearer, the wolf, exhibiting a wide range of its ancestors’ behavior.

siberian huskey9 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

siberian huskey10 Siberian Husky   True Winter Dog

They are known to howl rather than bark Hyperactivity, displaying as an overactive hunting drive, a characteristic of kenneled dogs, is often noticeable in dogs released from their captive environment for exercise — a behavior welcome in hunting dogs but not in the family pet. The frequency of kenneled Siberian Huskies, especially for racing purposes, is rather high, as attributed through the history of the breed in North America. They are affectionate with people, but independent. A fifteen-minute daily obedience training class will serve well for Siberian Huskies. Siberians need consistent training and do well with a positive reinforcement training program. They rank 45th in Stanley Coren’s The Intelligence of Dogs, being of average working/obedience intelligence. They tend to run because they were at first bred to be sled dogs. Owners are advised to exercise caution when letting their Siberian Husky off the leash as the dog is likely to be miles away before looking around and realizing their owner is nowhere in sight. They also get bored easily, so playing with toys or throwing the ball at least once a day is essential. Failure to give them the attention or proper exercise they need can result in unwanted behavior, such as excessive howling, marking, chewing on furniture, or crying This dog is sometimes called “the clown of the dogs” after its love to play like a puppy right through its life.

Article from www.pluspets.net/siberian-husky-true-winter-dog

Are female dogs the friendliest?

For as long as one can remember, people are always trying to figure out if they want a female dog or a male dog. Would a female personality fit in better with their family or a male? Will the existing family pet get along with another of the same or opposite sex? How are you really supposed to know what their adult  personality is going to be?During a recent study on Beagles, Swedish researchers at Linkoping University have determined that females are, in fact, the friendlier and more sociable sex.  It appears that their maternal instincts make them interact with humans more than males do.

Professor Per Jensen, of Linkoping University, said, “Females scored significantly higher on social interactions and physical contact. We don’t really know why females were more social towards humans, but a speculative possibility would be that it could be a side-effect of their nurturing instincts. Perhaps female dogs are more apt at co-operation since they have a pup-rearing responsibility in their natural behavior.”

The study took place with 400 pedigree Beagles. Each Beagle was presented with three plastic containers, each containing a biscuit.  Two of the containers had lids that were slightly off and the third had a lid that was fully closed.  It turns out that the females were much more likely to look at the researcher for help – some even touched them with their paw.

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Professor Jensen hopes that this research can help figure out human behavior.

“Reduced eye contact and communication have been suggested to be important aspects of human autism spectrum disorders,” says Jensen.

He hopes that this can further the understanding of genetic basis of the autism spectrum disorders.

Fear not, male owners. Prof. Jensen doesn’t want you to think that the female is the superior pet.

“We studied only one single breed and we do not know how the communicative skills relate to other aspects of their social behavior… So I would not dare to take the conclusions that far.”

References:

1.  Chicken Smoothie 2. Huffington Post 3. Daily Mail UK

Article reposted from http://3milliondogs.com/

12 Tips for a Well Behaved Dog

I) Start training your puppy early on. While old dogs can be taught new tricks, what’s learned earliest, is often learned quickest and easiest. Moreover, the older the dog, the more bad habits will likely need to be “un-learned”. When it comes to raising and training a dog, an ounce of problem prevention is certainly worth a pound of cure!

2) Train your dog gently and humanely, and whenever possible, teach him using positive, motivational methods. Keep obedience sessions upbeat so that the training process is enjoyable for all parties involved. If training your pooch is a drudgery, rev things up a bit, and try the “playtraining” approach: incorporate constructive, non-adversarial games (such as “Go Find”, “Hide ‘n’ Seek”, retrieving, etc.) into your training sessions.

3) Does your dog treat you like “hired help” at home? Does he treat you like a human gymnasium when you’re sitting on the furniture? Does he beg at the table? Jump up on visitors? Demand your attention by annoying you to death? Ignore your commands? How well your dog responds to you at home affects his behavior outdoors as well. If your dog doesn’t respond reliably to commands at home (where distractions are relatively minimal), he certainly won’t respond to you properly outdoors where he’s tempted by other dogs, pigeons, passersby, sidewalk food scraps, etc.

4) Avoid giving your dog commands that you know you cannot enforce. Every time you give a command that is neither complied with nor enforced your dog learns that commands are optional.

5) One command should equal one response, so give your dog only one command (twice max!), then gently enforce it. Repeating commands tunes your dog out (as does nagging) and teaches your dog that the first several commands are a “bluff ‘. For instance, telling your dog to “Sit, sit, sit, sit!”, is neither an efficient nor effective way to issue commands. Simply give your dog a single “Sit” command and gently place or lure your dog into the sit position, then praise/reward.

6) Avoid giving your dog combined commands which are incompatible. Combined commands such as “sit-down” can confuse your dog. Using this example, say either “sit” or “down”. The command “sit-down” simply doesn’t exist.

7) When giving your dog a command, avoid using a loud voice. Even if your dog is especially independent/unresponsive, your tone of voice when issuing an obedience command such as “sit”,”down” or “”stay”, should be calm and authoritative, rather than harsh or loud.

NOTE: Many owners complain that their dogs are “stubborn”, and that they “refuse to listen” when given a command. Before blaming the dog when he doesn’t respond to a command, one must determine whether or not: a) the dog knows what the owner wants, b) he knows how to comply,  c) he is not simply being unresponsive due to fear, stress or confusion.

8 ) Whenever possible, use your dog’s name positively, rather than using it in conjunction to reprimands, warnings or punishment. Your dog should trust that when it hears its name or is called to you, good things happen. His name should always be a word he responds to with enthusiasm, never hesitancy or fear.

9) Correct or, better yet, prevent the (mis)behavior, don’t punish the dog. Teaching and communication is what it’s all about, not getting even with your dog. If you’re taking an “it’s-you-against-your dog, whip ’em into shape” approach, you’ll undermine your relationship, while missing out on all the fun that a motivational training approach can offer. Additionally, after-the-fact discipline does NOT work.

10) When training one’s dog, whether praising or correcting, good timing is essential. Take the following example: You’ve prepared a platter of hors d’oeuvres for a small dinner party, which you’ve left on your kitchen counter. Your dog walks into the room and smells the hors d’oeuvres. He air-sniffs, then eyes the food, and is poised to jump up. This is the best, easiest and most effective time to correct your dog: before he’s misbehaved, while he’s thinking about jumping up to get the food.

11) Often, dog owners inadvertently reinforce their dogs’ misbehavior, by giving their dogs lots of attention (albeit negative attention) when they misbehave. Needless to say, if your dog receives lots of attention and handling when he jumps up on you, that behavior is being reinforced, and is therefor likely to be repeated.

12) Keep a lid on your anger. Never train your dog when you’re feeling grouchy or impatient. Earning your dog’s respect is never accomplished by yelling, hitting, or handling your dog in a harsh manner. Moreover, studies have shown that fear and stress inhibit the learning process.

Copyright 1995 – 2000,  Robin Kovary

Original article appeared at www.inch.com/~dogs/twelvetips.html

What exactly does your dog see?

Have you ever been curious about how your dog sees the world?

 

Our eyes perceive the world through the use of rods and cones. Dogs eyes work in a very similar way except the amount of colors they see is only a fraction of what we see. Moreover their ability to discern between brightness isn’t as strong as ours, meaning that it’s harder for them to tell the difference between two shades of gray. Below is the spectrum visible to humans spanning from magenta to violet, underneath that is the visible spectrum to our doggies.

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Dogs view the world in a mix of yellow, blue and shades of gray. Colours such as red and green can appear very similar to them. When selecting a toy for your dog, try to pick a colour that is easily visible to them such as something that includes blue or yellow. If you were playing fetch with your dog and they constantly keep running past the ball, it could be difficult for them to see.

Below is the lovely shot of the town of Burano, Italy. On the left is the original, and on the right is the doggy vision.

c4g1gxc4g1gx - DogVision

Many of the yellows and the blues that we can see are visible to dogs, but its visualized in a different way. While our photoreceptors mix red, green and blue light, theirs mix yellow and blue and compensate for the rest using shades of gray.

Here is a useful tool to show how your dog views the world.

So when you ask your dog “How do I look?” they probably think you look great,  but don’t take their advice on matching colors.

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Originally posted on http://3milliondogs.com/news/what-exactly-does-your-dog-see